Charleston is buzzing with excitement as Kiku Refashion, the unique fashion label founded by a mother-daughter team, continues to make waves in the luxury retail market. Susu Smythe, a lawyer by day and creative seamstress by night, has taken her passion for vintage Japanese kimono silks and turned it into an inspiring business that’s capturing hearts—and runway spots—in the charming city.
The journey kicked off during the COVID-19 pandemic when Susu began collecting these stunning silks. It all started with a quest to find the perfect table runner for her dining room table. After purchasing a beautiful kimono obi, she quickly fell down the rabbit hole, accumulating a plethora of kimonos and gradually filling her home’s kitchen building to the brim. A mentor suggested she take her hobby professional, and thus, Kiku Refashion was born.
“As I delved deeper, I realized each piece isn’t just a piece of clothing; it’s a piece of art with history,” Susu explained. She noted that the craft of kimonos is deeply rooted in regional traditions, with each artisan creating one-of-a-kind garments that embody their unique style and craftsmanship.
For Susu, it’s vital that the beautiful pieces she creates serve a purpose beyond being admired from afar. “I want these creations to be lived in and appreciated,” she shared. “It’s about giving these silks a second life.” Each kimono is painstakingly dismantled, with care taken to preserve its beauty before being reimagined into attractively designed clothing. Smythe proudly promotes her items as reversible, showcasing the incredible workmanship on both sides.
Susu’s love for Japanese culture didn’t spring up overnight. Growing up, she experienced life in various South Asian countries, including a significant period during her teenage years in Japan, which sparked her fascination with kimonos. This longstanding appreciation for culture is evident in her work, which tells the story of the fabrics that come from communities that have been crafting kimonos for generations.
Interestingly, the Japanese culture has a distinctive attitude toward used clothing, especially when it comes to kimonos. “They often prefer to rent kimonos for special occasions rather than buy them used,” Susu explained. The deep-rooted belief that garments carry a spirit adds a whole new layer of respect and significance to her work.
Teaming up with her daughter, Nancy Clair, who possesses extensive retail and photography experience, the duo are ambitiously expanding Kiku Refashion’s reach. “I admire my mom’s talent, and I’ve always tried to support her passions,” Clair reflected. “Now, we share this incredible journey together.” With six runway shows beyond their belt, these two are making quite the impression on Charleston’s fashion elite.
The two are eager to share their love for fashion while remaining intentional about their growth. “Our challenge,” Smythe commented, “is figuring out how we can grow our niche luxury brand while keeping it fun.” They’re exploring options to engage with a wider audience, including working with influencers to share their story and products.
“Working with my mom has reignited my passion for creativity,” Clair admitted. With a background in photography, she finds joy in the artistic side of their fashion line, fostering a partnership that brings together their talents beautifully.
For Susu, as her legal career winds down, she embraces this new chapter with enthusiasm. “I’m ready to embark on something that keeps me learning and connected to the community,” she said, revealing her vision for the future.
Kiku Refashion isn’t just about selling clothing; it’s about celebrating culture, art, and the shared love between a mother and daughter. As they look to the future, the pair is committed to redefining the luxury retail landscape in Charleston while creating not just fashion but truly meaningful pieces that will continue to live on.
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